爺嬤正潮!

自信,敢秀,做自己
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2018 / 9月

文‧鄧慧純 圖‧莊坤儒


「潮」,不是年輕人專屬,近來許多樂齡長者站上舞台,秀出自己。我們以為該頤養天年的阿公、阿嬤,取回自己的話語權,用他們的姿態跟世人昭告,年齡不是問題,樂齡長者也可以活得很自我、很時尚。

潮爺、潮嬤,Why not?

 


 

林天扶,65歲,人稱時尚潮爺,曾以白T和牛仔褲為全聯走秀,廣告作品見於各大媒體。

林江絹代,人稱波西米亞阿嬤,78歲當上模特兒,在台南緩慢文旅與設計師邱娉勻的「古都藝手衣」計畫中,帶著私藏的飾品,婀娜多姿地走上伸展台。

還有新創公司「Unipapa有理百物」打造82歲的潮你嬤、79歲的啾啾嬤、76歲的煞氣嬤、84歲的文青嬤、78歲的John阿公,為產品代言,一如企業為台灣老品牌改造的宗旨。

阿公、阿嬤躍上舞台

Unipapa有理百物是一間想以設計創造改變的新創公司。2016年,取其諧音且創意十足的「潮伶阿罵」好神拖廣告讓Unipapa一炮而紅。企劃主事者呂依婷回想,當初想為台灣經典家用品好神拖添一點時尚感,找了時尚妹拍宣傳照,效果卻不到位;她異想天開地邀請自家阿嬤出馬,公司同事搬出自己的衣物為阿嬤穿搭,廣告一推出就造成轟動。2018年,更聲勢浩大擴增到五人潮團,讓阿嬤們穿上皮衣、頭頂紮一個小丸子,阿公穿上帽T、牛仔外套,一字排開,代言老品牌大革新,Unipapa用阿公阿嬤的反差梗,玩得高招,也玩出名聲,許多網友都想送自家的阿公、阿嬤參與改造。

雖說這群阿公阿嬤當初只是想幫孫女的忙,「但他們還蠻開心的,也才發現原來阿公阿嬤其實都很想要好好裝扮,只是她們都很拍謝(害羞),平常不敢展現自己。」呂依婷分享過程中的觀察。

在台灣,多數的長者總是很害羞,可是也有很敢秀自己的阿公。時尚潮爺林天扶本業是腳底按摩師,他師承吳若石神父的技法,經營台北最老字號的腳底按摩店,開業已三十多年了。出色的外型和打扮被星探發掘,開始參與廣告拍攝,也一圓他昔日的明星夢。

鏡頭前林天扶就是「帥」。要展現帥氣的外表,他說養生很重要,病懨懨的怎麼帥得起來。他每周固定赤足爬七星山,到山上大叫大笑,紓解壓力。到公園赤腳踩樹根,刺激腳底的穴道。人的精氣神養足了,氣色好,自然不顯老。

平日喜歡簡單有型的穿搭,林天扶特別偏好能展現粗獷和野性的迷彩裝,年紀漸長,他參考時尚大叔Nick Wooster的穿搭,穿出個人品味。他笑稱自己絕不挑看起來像歐吉桑的衣服,更特別用心選擇小配件,讓造型畫龍點睛。

應採訪需求我們到了戶外拍攝取景,途中遇到出來散步放風的標準型貴賓犬哈媚路過,只見潮爺童心一起,他興奮地趨前詢問,可以一起拍照嗎?堆著滿臉笑意牽著毛小孩一起入鏡。永保年輕的心態,林天扶的時尚美學就是「做自己」,不管多老都要潮!

潮阿嬤,做自己最開心

在台南也有位敢做自己的阿嬤──1941年次的林江絹代。初見阿嬤的印象就是酷,她的美與同年紀的人很不同。脖子上掛了數串玉飾項鍊很吸睛,手鐲、戒指也加入混搭的行列,垂墜在臉頰兩側的耳墜子會隨著她的動作晃動,她自己用髮捲將灰白的頭髮纏成一個髻固定在後腦勺,穿搭很有自己的風格,大家稱她「波西米亞阿嬤」。

林江絹代出身台南玉井竹圍江家,也是昔日台南國華戲院的長媳。年輕時長住美國,思想開放,任何事物都樂於接受、學習。數年前曾大病一場,在安養院住了一年半,如今恢復到能走能跳,阿嬤直說,很感謝很感恩。跟阿嬤聊天,常常說著說著,她會忽然用手摀著嘴巴,笑稱:「不能再說下去了,天機不可洩漏。」原來阿嬤篤信一語成讖,不好的意念絕不出口,凡事往好的方面想,儘管經歷了病痛的磨難,總是樂觀面對人生,是阿嬤最讓人感佩的地方。

儘管年歲已高,阿嬤不愛成天窩在家裡,她幾乎每天到家附近的緩慢文旅報到,跟著店裡的年輕同仁打成一片。1985年次的服裝設計師邱娉勻今年年初到緩慢文旅擔任駐店藝術家,因此遇見了林江絹代,一老一少互有好奇。邱娉勻說,第一次看到阿嬤就覺得很有型,很酷。她曾一窺阿嬤的衣櫃,笑稱:「有一些衣服還蠻浮誇的,還有亮片,但是都非常好看。」阿嬤精於編織、手工藝絕活,還收藏了許多精美飾品,兩人對美的事物的共同喜好,開啟了一場忘年之交,邱娉勻邀請阿嬤當駐店計畫成果展的模特兒,兩人有更多的話題與討論,看著邱娉勻設計的衣服,阿嬤也樂得把自己的私藏的飾品拿出來搭配。

駐店計畫最終的發表,緩慢文旅把店旁的長廊當作伸展台,讓參與的模特兒們上台走秀,波希米亞阿嬤尤其引人目光。其實,阿嬤的一切平凡也不平凡,她展現的時尚沒有年齡限制,只是忠於自己,一如邱娉勻所傳達的,任何人皆可擁抱時尚,沒有限制。

樂齡不是數字,而是故事

任何人皆可擁抱時尚,樂齡長者也不例外,但他們卻可能因為身形的變化,覓不著合適的服飾,只能將就。

5月底,實踐大學與台北醫學大學合辦的橘色時尚學分工作坊成果發表,設計科系的學生從長者的需求出發,讓每位長者穿上專為他們訂製、時尚又舒適的服飾走上伸展台,秀出自己。

實踐大學服裝設計系副教授謝詠絮表示,讓學生親身與樂齡長者一對一地互動與觀察,是設計師的一種生活體驗,也意在探索設計的更多可能性。講師徐敏榜則點出隨著高齡化趨勢,設計界勢必要思考如何照顧長者們的需求,這門課程的設計立意頗佳,能讓學生從實做中獲益更多。

不只是參與式的互動,老師們更用心良苦,借來老化服,讓學生親身體會長者的行動樣態,戴上特製眼鏡,了解長者視線的侷限,手、腳的關節被綁上層層束縛,體驗行動僵硬的狀態,才知曉長者在日常活動上的囿限,方能實踐在設計細節中。

年長者容易在手臂和腹部囤積脂肪,駝背或是手術造成身形的改變,都要經過實際量身才能發現。這些影響造型和穿著舒適度的細節,謝詠絮都鼓勵學生觀察長者細微的需求,再利用設計的技巧修飾身形。

「重點是關注,但不要強調。」謝詠絮解釋。

徐敏榜舉例說明,年長者的安全防護問題很重要,但沒有人喜歡帶著護膝、護肘行動,因此,在課程中,學生找到一種蜂巢狀的布,將之融入設計剪裁,增加衣料的耐磨跟防護,如此一來,外觀不顯露,卻達到防護的功能,就是成功的嘗試。「我們關注,然後細心地把它放到設計裡頭。」徐敏榜解釋。

講師馮紫蘭在課程中分享她多年照顧長者的經驗,而整個課程中最令她感動的是這是個有愛的計畫,每一件作品都是學生親身了解長者的故事後,設身處地的找尋解決的方案。這個課程將對長者的關心從年齡的數字轉而為了解長者們的人生故事,也讓這次樂齡時尚的實驗更有溫度。

謝詠絮說:「時尚就是敢秀。」徐敏榜說:「自信就是一種時尚。」馮紫蘭說:「時尚,開心很重要。」年齡不該是展現自我的阻礙,任何時刻、任何情況,都該呈現自己最美麗的樣態。生命,該當如此。潮爺、潮嬤,理所當然。

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近期文章

英文

Oldsters at the Height of Fashion

Cathy Teng /photos courtesy of Chuang Kung-ju /tr. by Phil Newell

“Trendiness” is not the exclusive province of the young, and recently a number of golden-agers have shown themselves in the public eye. We take it to be true that these “grandpas” and “grandmas” have taken back their right to express themselves, using their attitude to tell the world that age is not a problem, and that seniors too can be fashionable and live true to themselves.

Trendy grandpa, trendy grandma—why not?


 

Logan Lin, age 65, is known as the “fashion-trendy granddad,” and advertisements featuring him can be seen in all the major media.

Lin-­Jiang Juan­dai, known as “the Bohemian grandmother,” became a model at age 78, and wears her own accessories as she walks down the catwalk.

There is also a company called “Uni­papa” that has created an 82-year-old “Beyoncé,” a 79-year-old “Ri­hanna,” a 76-year-old “Madonna,” an 84-year-old “Hebe,” and a 78-year-old “Big John” as spokespersons for their products. Uni­papa’s purpose is to rebuild a new image for old brands.

Old folks take the stage

Uni­papa is a start-up that aims to create change through design. It became an overnight sensation thanks to its extremely creative ad for “Supa­mop” featuring “Grandma Chao­ling.” Tina Lu, who works in marketing at Uni­papa and ran the campaign, recalls that she let her imagination run free and decided to invite her own grandmother to participate, while colleagues at the company brought out their own clothes for her grandma to wear. The ad was a hit as soon as it came out. In 2018, they expanded to a group of five elderly people, getting the women to dress in leather and the man to wear a hoodie or jean jacket, and lining them up in a row to act as spokespeople for the renovation of old brand names. Unipapa used the contrast of these elderly people with young fashion as its master stroke, earning quite a reputation in the process.

You could say that at first these old folk only wanted to help out one of them’s granddaughter. But Tina Lu, sharing her observations of the process, says “In fact they have a lot of fun, and it was only through their participation that we discovered they were very shy, and ordinarily wouldn’t dare to put themselves on display.”

In Taiwan, most elderly people are indeed shy, but there is at least one senior gent who dares to show himself off. “Fashion-trendy granddad” Logan Lin is a foot masseur by profession. But he was discovered by a talent scout as a result of his appearance and the remarkable way he dresses, and he began to take part in commercial photo shoots.

In front of the lens, Lin is simply “handsome.” He says that staying healthy is important if you want to maintain a handsome appearance, for how can a sickly person look good? Each week he hikes up Mt. Qi­xing barefoot, and at the top he shouts and laughs out loud to relieve stress. He also goes to parks to walk barefoot over tree roots, in order to stimulate the acupuncture points on the soles of the feet.

Lin, who ordinarily prefers to dress in simple but stylish outfits, especially loves the opportunity to model rough and outdoorsy camouflage clothing. He says with a laugh that he will definitely never choose clothing that makes him look like an old man, and he is especially meticulous about selecting accessories to put the finishing touches to his style.

Always young at heart, Lin’s fashion aesthetic is to “be myself,” and to be trendy no matter how old he gets!

Trendy grandmother

There is also an elderly woman in Tai­nan who dares to be herself: Lin-­Jiang Juan­dai, who was born in 1941. The impression one gets on first seeing this woman is “cool.” The multiple jade necklaces hung around her neck capture the eye, while the pendant earrings that hang beside her cheeks sway as she moves. She uses hair rollers to wind her white hair into a bun that she fixes at the back of her head. Her outfits show her personal sense of style, and everyone calls her “the Bohemian grandmother.”

In her youth Lin-­Jiang Juan­dai lived for many years in the US, which gave her an open-minded outlook on life. Several years ago she experienced a severe illness, and now that she is able to be active again, she says straight out that she feels very grateful. As we chat, she often breaks off in mid-sentence, suddenly covering her mouth with her hand and declaring with a laugh: “I mustn’t say any more—Heaven’s secrets cannot be divulged.” It turns out that this grandmother deeply believes that things said now will come true in the future, so she absolutely never lets bad notions pass her lips, and looks for the positive in every situation. The most admirable thing about this elderly woman is that, in spite of having passed through the trial of illness, she always looks at life optimistically.

Despite her age, Lin doesn’t like to stay home all day. Almost every day she goes to Adagio Travel Tai­nan Roots Inn, a hotel and travel service which is very near her home, fitting in with the young colleagues in the business. Early this year, clothing designer Juby Chiu, who was born in 1985, went to Adagio Travel to be their artist in residence. There she met Lin-­Jiang Juan­dai, and the two of them developed a mutual curiosity. Their common affection for beautiful things started an interaction that bridged the age gap, and Chiu asked Lin to be a model in the show that she put on with Adagio to exhibit the clothes she created during her residency. Seeing the clothing designed by Chiu, Lin was delighted to bring out her own stash of accessories to match with it.

Nothing is ordinary for this grandmother, and the sense of fashion she exhibits has no age limit, requiring only that she is true to herself. As Juby Chiu says, anyone can embrace fashion, there are no limitations.

Age is not a number, but a story

At the end of May, at the show to present the results of the “Aging Fashion Workshop” organized jointly by Shih ­Chien University and Taipei Medical University, design students exhibited clothing that was designed to fit the needs of elderly people. Each of the senior models was able to wear clothes that were specially made for them and were stylish and comfortable as they stepped onto the catwalk and showed themselves off.

Grace ­Hsieh, associate professor in the Department of Fashion Design at Shih ­Chien, says that enabling students to interact with golden-agers one-on-one is a useful kind of life experience for the designers. Senior lecturer David Hsu, meanwhile, points out that with the trend of aging in our societies, the design world must think about how to take care of the needs of the elderly.

It is only through hands-on measurement that the students discover that elderly people are prone to ­accumulating fat on the arms and abdomen, or they may have rounded shoulders, or their body shape may have changed due to surgery. These details affect style and comfort, so Grace ­Hsieh encourages students to discover the needs of the elderly and use their design skills to make their body shapes more attractive.

“The most important thing is to pay attention to seniors’ needs, but you don’t want to emphasize their shortcomings,” explains ­Hsieh.

David Hsu adds that protection from injury is an important issue for elderly people. Therefore, during the course the students found a honeycomb fabric that increases wear resistance and protection, and blended it into their designs. In this way they were able to make clothes protective without showing anything unusual in their external appearance.

In the course senior lecturer Feng Tse-lan, who is 65, shared her experiences of catering to the needs of elderly people over many years. What touched her most about the whole course was that it was a project of love. The program shifted the focus of attention toward seniors from their numerical ages to understanding their life stories, which added warmth to this experiment in golden-ager fashion.

Grace ­Hsieh says: “Fashion is daring to show oneself off.” David Hsu says: “Self-confidence is stylish in itself.” And Feng Tse-lan says: “In fashion, happiness is very important.” Age should not be an obstacle to self-expression, and one should express one’s most beautiful side no matter what the time or situation. Life should be like this. Trendy grandpas, trendy grandmas—they are to be expected as a matter of course.

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